I made a careful study of what kits are available. I took into consideration such items as reputation, cost, materials used in the kit, overall kit design, and completeness of the kit. After a tentative decision in favor of the Rubicon Express System, I spoke on the phone with “Ryan” Wallace at Rubicon. I was very impressed by his friendliness and knowledge about his product. He was very easy to talk to. I knew I would have excellent telephone support for any questions I might have during the installation process.

Ryan was very cooperative in modifying the Rubicon Express 4.5” System to fit my specific needs. I wanted most of the advantages of the 4.5” System, but I only wanted 3” of lift. Since I also plan to replace the stock Transfer Case with an Advance Adapters Atlas II Extreme TC with a very low gear, Ryan agreed to omit the Slip Yoke Eliminator Kit and the Replacement Rear Drive Shaft. He modified the kit, and the price, to fit my request.

When the Kit arrived I laid out the parts on a sheet of plywood. The adjustable (front) track bar and the rear bumpstop extensions didn't arrive until the next day, and aren't in this photo. Click on the photo for a full-size view. I examined all the parts carefully and am very impressed with their quality. They are very well engineered, the TIG welds are outstanding, and the finish is beautiful. This Kit was designed and built by people who really care!

INSTALLATION

I did this installation with very little help on my concrete garage floor. I have a fairly small set of tools. I bought a Torx tool T55, and I added a set of Coil Spring Compressors for this job. Metric is the name of the game, and several deep-wall sockets were useful. I do have 4 rather beefy Jack Stands, 2 small Jack Stands, and a Floor Jack. My creeper helped reduce wear and tear on the body.

I put TJ Road Runner up on the big Jack Stands, and gave it a really strong “shake” before removing the wheels. It was very solid.

Following written instructions furnished by Rubicon Express I removed the wheels. Then I removed the front shocks and the front Torsion Bar (“sway bar”) end links. I removed the front coil springs, using the Coil Spring Compressors. This Compressor set, by the way, is probably a necessity for doing the job. I would hate to try this job without it! The Coil Spring Compressor set threatened to mar the beautiful Powder Coat finish on the new coils, so I padded the grippes with some paper. The Spring Compressors were also absolutely necessary for removal of the original equipment coils. But I'm getting ahead of the story! After removing the original front coils I removed the upper and lower control arms.

Some of the lower control arm attachment bolts were so tight they must have been installed at the factory by The Hulk after a bad night out, and a big steak breakfast. Notice in the photo the original upper front swing arm (left) compared with the Rubicon Express replacement arm. Click the picture for full-size photo. Check the metal thickness, the weld, and the finish. Impressive!

Next I removed the factory brake lines, and replaced them with the extended brake lines in the Kit. I was very careful to avoid any brake fluid spill, since it will damage most paint. It's important to position the new brake lines so they won't be rubbed by the tires in a tight turn. I thoroughly bled both brake lines, and checked for leaks. A friend helped me with this job.

I deviated slightly from the Instructions for the installation of the front bumbstop extensions. Instead of drilling and tapping holes, I drilled 5/16 inch holes in the centers of the lower spring pads. After placing the front coil springs in position, I used bolts and nuts to secure the bumpstop extensions.

The new front control arms went on quite easily. I had supported the front axle housing on my two small jack stands, and a little bit of prying did the trick. The original hardware was used, and the ends with the rubber bushings were installed at the frame. Note that the lower control arms have a special fitting that swivels. This is called a “Heim” joint. It allows for much greater flexibility than ordinary rubber bushings, and allows full suspension movement without binding. This is a special design feature of the Rubicon Express Kit that I like very much. I didn't tighten the nuts beyond slightly snug. Note how the bolts that attach the front ends of the lower control arms have cams that are used to adjust caster.

Installation of the front coil springs is a little tricky. If you slide the compressed front coil into place and include the bumpstop extension at the same time, it will work. Place the lower end of the spring in the detent in the lower spring pad. Progressively loosen the Coil Compressors, a little at a time alternating from side to side.

Installing the shocks involves installing bar pins, provided with the Kit, to match the original factory set-up. I installed a couple of them using my vise, with some dishsoap for lubricant. My drill press also worked well for the modest pressure needed. A professional shop uses a hydraulic press, but a little ingenuity will do the trick.

I then replaced the spring retainer clips at the base of each coil. Installation of the adjustable front track bar was accomplished easily following Rubicon Express instructions. Again, I appreciate the Heim joint on the track bar. I didn't tighten the adjustment lock nut. The Torsion Bar quick disconnect was installed and tightened. These two photos show some details for the left front corner of the vehicle. Above (left) you can see the finished job. At the right is one of the quick disconnect tubes with its pins. This completed the front of the vehicle except for adjustments and tightening.

At the rear end the procedure was similar. I supported the front axle with some blocks so I could use my small jack stands to support the rear axle. Then I removed the shocks, the rear Torsion Bar (“sway bar”) end links top and bottom, and the rear coil springs. My Coil Spring Compressor set was, again, indispensable. I removed the upper and lower control arms.

Next I removed the axle end of the rear track bar using the Torx tool #55. Following the written instructions I installed the track bar bracket in order to position the axle end of the track bar 3 inches above its original position. You can see the new bracket in the center of the photo at the right. This installation seems to be very solid. The lower control arms went on with their rubber bushings at the frame. I didn't tighten their attachment bolts.

Since I'll be replacing the factory Transfer Case with an Advance Adapters Atlas II extreme Low Range TC, I used a Kit from Rubicon Express to lower the skid plate 1 3/4 inches. This is only a temporary “fix.” It will reduce the critical rear drive line angles, thereby eliminating drive line vibration. When I install the Atlas II I'll install a longer rear drive shaft and will have more favorable rear drive line angles. I will then be able to replace the skid plate to its original position.

Using the original hardware, I installed the lower control arms with their rubber bushings at the frame, and their Heim joints at the axle end. I didn't tighten them. The upper control arms went on in the same manner. Note the adjustment feature of the upper arms. I followed instructions in the Chrysler Service Manual, page 3 - 6, and adjusted the propeller shaft angles by changing the length of the upper control arms. Thanks, Pat Dubiskas, for the loan of the Inclinometer for measuring the angles. My friend, Pat, is Service Manager at my local Chrysler dealer.

The rear bumpstop extensions puzzled me at first. The written instructions were clear, but didn't seem to suggest the best way to do it. So I repeated what I had done for the front bumpstop extensions. I drilled 5/16 inch holes in the centers of the lower spring pads, and attached the extensions using nuts and bolts.

Installation of the rear coils went just like in front. I slid the compressed coils onto the rear pads simultaneously with the rear bumpstop extensions. Then I installed the replacement rear Torsion Bar end links and rear shocks.

I have secured the brake line and the differential breather hose to the upper swing arm. I used nylon string and silicone. By the way, I extended the length of the breather hoses for both differentials.

I installed the tires and lowered the vehicle to the floor. With normal weight on the vehicle and the front tires in the straight ahead position, I “eyeballed” the caster setting and tightened the caster adjustment cams. I also “eyeballed” the toe-in setting for a temporary adjustment. Then I tightened all the remaining control arm attachment bolts to torque specified by my Service Manual. I then double-checked tightness of all nuts and bolts for my entire installation.

I adjusted the length of the front track bar according to the instructions supplied with it. I then adjusted the drag link to center the steering wheel. Upon completion of these minor adjustments, I took TJ RoadRunner to an Alignment Shop for a complete Front End Alignment.

SOME COMMENTS

Where nylon lock nuts are supplied I use them. With other nuts I use a small drop of Locktite 242 “blue” Threadlocker. I learned this trick during my motorcycle days. I've never had a nut come loose after using Threadlocker on it. Be sure to use blue # 242. Some other types of Threadlocker won't come loose without severe force or heating.

Provision should be made for tying the front Torsion Bar up and out of the way when it's disconnected.

I did the installation in 4 days. The only help I had was with bleeding the front brakes. The job probably could be done in a busy 2 day week-end if you had some assistance.

Wheel articulation is so extreme that the front coil springs actually hung below their upper pads during some of my early performance testing of improved TJ Road Runner. I'm going to install “travel limiter straps” on both sides up front. I may need them for the back, too.

PERFORMANCE

The results achieved by installing this Suspension Lift are truly amazing. At minimum it's like driving an entirely new vehicle. Street and highway performance feels great. Off-highway wheel articulation is limited only by the length of the front coil springs. I will soon have “travel limiter straps” to prevent excessive front wheel drop.

The first time out with my improved TJ I took a 30 degree angle route across a 2 foot deep ditch at the edge of the road. I stopped at the critical place where I expected to have two diagonally opposite wheels in the air. Al four tires were still on the ground! The hanging front coil spring had actually separated from its top pad about 3 inches. The high side tire was far up into the wheel well, but it cleared the sheet metal very well. I couldn't believe what I had achieved!

I continued across the ditch, then returned across it, taking a similar angle cut. This time I didn't stop. I fully expected a considerable lurch while crossing it. Instead, there was a small sway from side to side, and TJ Road Runner remained almost level. The results achieved by the installation of this Suspension Lift have far exceeded my expectations. This certainly has made a giant step toward making TJ Road Runner the vehicle of my dreams!

Project Road Runner: http://www.adventurezine.com/4WD/TJRoadRunner/liftfortj2.html